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Project

Rotted Rooftop Deck Rebuild — Vancouver

LocationVancouver, BC
Year2025
Duration4
Finished rooftop deck in Vancouver — new heat-welded vinyl membrane sloped to a single drain, rebuilt over fully replaced framing, insulation, sheathing and a re-wrapped exterior wall after years of hidden water damage were cut out and rebuilt from the structure up.
Finished rooftop deck in Vancouver — new heat-welded vinyl membrane sloped to a single drain, rebuilt over fully replaced framing, insulation, sheathing and a re-wrapped exterior wall after years of hidden water damage were cut out and rebuilt from the structure up.

Overview

The project in one paragraph

A Vancouver, BC rooftop deck where a failing vinyl membrane had been quietly soaking the structure underneath for years. We stripped the old vinyl, plywood and insulation back to the joists, found extensive rot in the floor framing and the exterior wall below the threshold, cut out and sistered every compromised joist and stud, replaced the rim, sheathing and batt insulation, installed new pressure-treated 2×4 sleepers for proper drainage slope, re-sheeted the deck and walls in fresh plywood, re-wrapped the wall in Tyvek, and finished the whole deck in a new heat-welded vinyl membrane that drains as one continuous surface — the rot stops here.

The call: 'something's soft underfoot on the rooftop deck'

The Vancouver homeowner had noticed the rooftop deck membrane was bubbling near the threshold of the slider, and a couple of spots felt soft underfoot. Inside, the wall directly below the deck was starting to show staining. We opened up a small inspection area on day one, found rot in the plywood and joists below the membrane, and after talking it through with the owner agreed the only honest fix was to strip the deck back to the structure, see exactly how far the rot had spread, and rebuild it from the framing up rather than patch over more failing material. That's the project these photos document.

Demo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damage

Once the vinyl membrane and plywood subfloor came up, the scope grew. Multiple joists were rotted along their top edges where water had been sitting trapped between the membrane and the sheathing, the rim joist at the wall was saturated, the batt insulation in the floor cavities was wet enough to be lifted out in handfuls, and pulling the interior wall sheathing back at the threshold showed rot running down the studs as well — the leak had been getting into the wall assembly, not just the deck. The photos here are the discovery phase: the dirty grey film on the joists is years of fine debris that washed through the failed membrane, the black marks are where water sat against pressure-treated rim, and the yellow fiberglass is the original batt insulation that came out as part of the tear-out.

Demo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damageDemo: vinyl, plywood and insulation off — finding the damage

Rebuild: new framing, sleepers, insulation and sheathing

With the scope confirmed we cut out every compromised member back to sound wood, sistered or fully replaced the affected joists, replaced the rim and the wall studs that had rotted, and re-insulated the floor cavities and the exterior wall bays with new batt insulation. Pressure-treated 2×4 sleepers then went on top of the joists at calibrated heights to build a continuous drainage slope toward the existing drain — the original deck never had enough slope, which is half the reason the membrane failed in the first place. New tongue-and-groove plywood went down over the sleepers as the membrane substrate, and the interior wall got fresh plywood/OSB sheathing patched into the gaps where the original had to come out.

Rebuild: new framing, sleepers, insulation and sheathingRebuild: new framing, sleepers, insulation and sheathingRebuild: new framing, sleepers, insulation and sheathing

Weather barrier and new vinyl membrane

Once the structure was tight and dry the exterior wall facing the deck got a full wrap in DuPont Tyvek HomeWrap, with the seams overlapped and taped and a clean red-tape detail around the window opening so any future bulk water that gets behind the cladding has a continuous drainage plane to follow back out. The deck itself was then re-membraned in new heat-welded vinyl, tied properly into the wall flashing and the drain so the whole surface drains as one piece. The finished deck is the soft-textured grey vinyl floor in the last two photos — clean, sloped, drained, and sitting on top of an assembly that is now fully sound from the joists up.

Weather barrier and new vinyl membraneWeather barrier and new vinyl membraneWeather barrier and new vinyl membrane

Project Questions

FAQs about this build

How do you know when a rooftop deck needs a full rebuild instead of just a new membrane?

Soft spots underfoot, staining on the ceiling or wall below, and visible bubbling or seam failure in the membrane are the obvious signs. The honest test is to open up a small inspection area down to the sheathing and joists. If the plywood is delaminated, the joist tops are dark and punky, or the insulation in the cavity below is wet, a new membrane laid over that assembly will fail again within a couple of years because the rot will keep spreading. At that point a full strip-and-rebuild is the only repair that actually lasts. On this deck the damage extended into the exterior wall as well, which made the decision straightforward.

Why the pressure-treated 2×4 sleepers on top of the joists?

Two reasons. First, slope: vinyl deck membranes need a continuous fall toward the drain, typically around 2% (about ¼ inch per foot). The original joists on this deck were level, so the sleepers are ripped to varying heights and shimmed to build that slope into the substrate. Second, separation: pressure-treated sleepers raise the new plywood subfloor slightly off the structural joists so any moisture that ever does get past the membrane has air space to drain and dry, instead of sitting flat against the framing. It's a small detail that significantly extends the life of the next membrane.

Why did the original deck rot in the first place?

Two failures stacked on top of each other. The vinyl membrane was old enough that the seams and the flashing at the wall had given up — water was getting in around the perimeter, especially at the threshold of the slider. And the deck assembly underneath had effectively zero slope, so anything that did get in had nowhere to go and sat there for years. That combination is what produced the depth of damage you see in the demo photos. The rebuild addresses both — new membrane and new flashing on top, proper sloped substrate underneath.

Did the slider door and the wall below have to come out too?

The slider stayed in place — we worked around it and tied the new membrane and flashing back into the existing door pan. The interior wall sheathing below the threshold did have to come off so we could see and replace the rotted studs and the rim joist behind it, and the exterior wall facing the deck was stripped down to studs in the affected area, re-insulated and re-sheathed before the new Tyvek went on. The cladding above the deck was put back as it was — no new siding scope on this job, just the membrane assembly and the structure underneath it.

Want something similar?

If you've got a sloped yard, failing pavers or drainage issues, that's a project we'd be glad to look at. Free site visit and honest scope.

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